Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
